Deksheimer's Culinary Corner -
Soldiers’ Food in the Trenches
First, a comment about how JR129 will handle food. While the following compiled articles describe a bit on how the Germans fared in the trenches for their daily sustenance, we will be eating somewhat better. First off, we are in poor physical shape compared to these heroic warriors. Our need for food is also much greater due to our size and average weight. And finally, while some might like to see us be totally authentic in how we handle food, the bottom line is that we do this for fun and for learning history. So, a compromise has been reached. Our food will conform as close to the types of foods the original soldiers ate, but we will be getting more of it than they did and most likely in much fresher condition. That said, the following short articles have been combined to give us a glimpse of what foods were available in the trenches and how it was served.
“Food for soldiers in the trenches during World War One was at times considered a luxury. Getting decent hot food from the field kitchens to the trenches could be impossible when a battle was either imminent or in full flow. When soldiers were at stand-down, food was easier to acquire and German troops could expect certain food to be available with a degree of frequency.
The theoretical daily rations for a German soldier were:
• 26 ½ ounces of bread or 17 ½ of field biscuits or 14 ounces of egg biscuit
• 53 ounces of potatoes
• 4 ½ ounces vegetables or 2 ounces dried vegetables”(1)
As you can see by the above daily rations, the soldier was kept alive, but was probably always hungry. Even these meager daily rations were often difficult to obtain as England had a strangle hold on Germany with its powerful navy. The people back home often were asked to do with less to send more to the soldiers. Even so, as the war progressed, more soldiers were needed and the farms producing the needed food were stripped of workers. Note also that meat was not on the normal diet. Without refrigeration, meat was virtually impossible to get in fresh form. Most often, if the soldier was able to have meat, it came in the form of dried meat or was tinned. Often these meats were sent by friends and family from home.
Next, a short article on what the meals look like. Before you read this and feel that the soldier was doing OK, note that the article below is describing behind the lines, barracks meals – possibly before the war.
“Breakfast was usually coffee w/milk and rye bread with whatever toppings were available through various sources. The substantial noon meal was usually a cooked one with some sort of stew (beef, mutton, or pork) prepared in large kettles. The light supper meal was tea, coffee, or chocolate and bread. Soup was served on occasions. Fruits and desserts were not provided. The subsistence was meager, but it taught the soldier frugality and endurance which would prove useful in the front. The soldier was expected to add to his meal from his own pocket, particularly breakfast and supper. The meager rations forced families to send food, money and creature comforts to their loved ones, thus greatly reducing the expenses of the government. In addition, the families of the soldiers were forced to become a part of the military machine by playing a very important role in the subsistence and comfort of each of "their" soldiers. This carefully crafted idea was not an accident, and it worked quite well throughout the war. In the American Army, anything sent from home was a luxury, but in the German Army it was viewed as a necessity.”(2)
Obviously, milk was impossible to get in the trenches and has been said before; meat was a luxury item, not a normal stable. The main thing to get from the above article is that breakfast was light, coffee and bread with jam or toppings, lunch was the big meal of the day, usually a thick stew and dinner was again light, coffee and bread with soup occasionally. Below, we now look at some of the things the Germans had to do in order to make up for the shortages. Ersatz foods, clothing and even shoes were created.
“Ersatz Bread
The first step was the appearance of Kriegsbrot (war bread). Despite its name it was very palatable. It consisted of 55% rye, 25% wheat, and 20% potato meal, sugar and shortening. The potato element was said to prevent its getting stale. Kriegsbrot’s flavor improved by the third day and loaves a week old showed no deterioration. Although this first war bread was superior, rye and wheat flour were not always plentiful. Oats, Indian corn, barley, beans, peas and buckwheat meal had to be added as time went on. A popular cake sold in the cafés was made mostly of ground clover meal, with flour of horse-chestnuts added, a little rice, glucose, sugar or honey and chopped raisins or prunes. Even at the price it sold for--an ounce for three cents--the cake was a success, in nutrition, appearance and taste.
Ersatz Coffee, Tea and Cocoa
Coffee imports had become impossible by 1916. The scant stores on hand had been stretched and extenuated by the use of chicory and other supplements. A transition from coffee to coffee substitute began. The first substitute, Kaffee-ersatz, was not a bad one. It was mostly made of roasted barley and oats and the flavor was enhanced by chemicals from coal-tar. The brew had a good percentage of nutritive elements, no caffeine and was quite palatable when taken with milk and sugar--without sugar though, it was impossible. But the grain could be put to better purpose and so this led to the introduction of the substitute of a substitute. Kaffee-ersatz-ersatz was made of roasted acorns and beechnuts, with just enough roasted barley to build up a coffee flavor. It was said to be better than the first substitute but was also more expensive. Unfortunately, there weren’t enough acorns and beechnuts, much of which was being fed to pigs. Before long the excellent acorn-beechnut coffee disappeared to be replaced by a third substitute whose original ingredients were carrots and yellow turnips. A substitute for tea was not difficult. The bloom of the linden tree mixed with beech buds and a few tips of pine made an excellent "oolong." A cocoa substitute came from coal-tar and chemistry along with roasted peas and oats.
Meatless Meat
The advantage of the conversion of grains, nuts and vegetables that were used as substitutes was to placate the old eating habits of the public. The same food value would be found if consumed in some other form. This placation was no more evident than on every meatless, fatless, or wheatless day or period. The rice "lamb" chop would satisfy even an exacting taste. Rice was boiled and formed into a lump resembling a chop. A skewer of wood was stuck into the lump to serve as a bone. The illusion was made more complete with a little paper rosette to top off the "bone" and served with green peas and a sprig of watercress. Fried in real mutton tallow, it came to the table with the look and aroma of the real thing. The vegetable beefsteak was a composition of cornmeal, spinach, potatoes, and ground nuts with an egg to bind the mass together. It took becoming used to the thing’s interior, which was pale green, in order to achieve the satisfaction of using a knife in good earnest. The paucity of meat was a result of an economic decision made in 1914. It was easier and less wasteful to distribute cereals and vegetables directly than the more complex food products from animals, which required the same cereals and vegetables to keep alive. It was thought to be of more value to the state to eliminate the step of having animal stomachs convert home-raised cereal into meat and let the human stomach attend to the grain directly. The shortage of meat, lard, suet, butter, and eggs actually helped to improve the health of the public, due to the elimination of three-quarters of the fat normally consumed. Since no animal fat could be produced without sacrificing a good share of the country’s cereal supply, the animal-product industry was kept down to its lowest possible level. However, this had the undesirable effect of raising the prices of what meats and fats that were available and encouraging illicit trading.”(3)
For us in JR129, our food will be considerably better. However, we will try hard to stick to the same formula of a light breakfast, a heavier lunch and a light dinner. We will also stick to the same type foods and avoid items that they could not get. Ours will be fresher and in greater amounts. Do note in conclusion that foods from home became a basic staple of the German diet. We therefore recommend that each soldier bring with them some of the following:
• Chocolate – always dark and not in candy bar form if possible.
• Meat – tins of oysters, mussels, sardines, bully beef or any type of dried meat
• Hard candy – butterscotch, peppermint and licorice were common
• Dried fruit – apples, pears, peaches, apricots (not bananas)
• Coffee – coffee was not always available and the soldiers often received some from home
• Delicacies – peanuts, cookies, sweetbreads, nuts
[1] The History Learning Site UK, Chris Trueman
2 The German Soldier in World War I - The final "Argument of Kings", R.H.Keller/ 2009
3 The Production and Use of Ersatz Goods by Marc Benedict of J.R. 120, edited by Rudi Weiß
“Food for soldiers in the trenches during World War One was at times considered a luxury. Getting decent hot food from the field kitchens to the trenches could be impossible when a battle was either imminent or in full flow. When soldiers were at stand-down, food was easier to acquire and German troops could expect certain food to be available with a degree of frequency.
The theoretical daily rations for a German soldier were:
• 26 ½ ounces of bread or 17 ½ of field biscuits or 14 ounces of egg biscuit
• 53 ounces of potatoes
• 4 ½ ounces vegetables or 2 ounces dried vegetables”(1)
As you can see by the above daily rations, the soldier was kept alive, but was probably always hungry. Even these meager daily rations were often difficult to obtain as England had a strangle hold on Germany with its powerful navy. The people back home often were asked to do with less to send more to the soldiers. Even so, as the war progressed, more soldiers were needed and the farms producing the needed food were stripped of workers. Note also that meat was not on the normal diet. Without refrigeration, meat was virtually impossible to get in fresh form. Most often, if the soldier was able to have meat, it came in the form of dried meat or was tinned. Often these meats were sent by friends and family from home.
Next, a short article on what the meals look like. Before you read this and feel that the soldier was doing OK, note that the article below is describing behind the lines, barracks meals – possibly before the war.
“Breakfast was usually coffee w/milk and rye bread with whatever toppings were available through various sources. The substantial noon meal was usually a cooked one with some sort of stew (beef, mutton, or pork) prepared in large kettles. The light supper meal was tea, coffee, or chocolate and bread. Soup was served on occasions. Fruits and desserts were not provided. The subsistence was meager, but it taught the soldier frugality and endurance which would prove useful in the front. The soldier was expected to add to his meal from his own pocket, particularly breakfast and supper. The meager rations forced families to send food, money and creature comforts to their loved ones, thus greatly reducing the expenses of the government. In addition, the families of the soldiers were forced to become a part of the military machine by playing a very important role in the subsistence and comfort of each of "their" soldiers. This carefully crafted idea was not an accident, and it worked quite well throughout the war. In the American Army, anything sent from home was a luxury, but in the German Army it was viewed as a necessity.”(2)
Obviously, milk was impossible to get in the trenches and has been said before; meat was a luxury item, not a normal stable. The main thing to get from the above article is that breakfast was light, coffee and bread with jam or toppings, lunch was the big meal of the day, usually a thick stew and dinner was again light, coffee and bread with soup occasionally. Below, we now look at some of the things the Germans had to do in order to make up for the shortages. Ersatz foods, clothing and even shoes were created.
“Ersatz Bread
The first step was the appearance of Kriegsbrot (war bread). Despite its name it was very palatable. It consisted of 55% rye, 25% wheat, and 20% potato meal, sugar and shortening. The potato element was said to prevent its getting stale. Kriegsbrot’s flavor improved by the third day and loaves a week old showed no deterioration. Although this first war bread was superior, rye and wheat flour were not always plentiful. Oats, Indian corn, barley, beans, peas and buckwheat meal had to be added as time went on. A popular cake sold in the cafés was made mostly of ground clover meal, with flour of horse-chestnuts added, a little rice, glucose, sugar or honey and chopped raisins or prunes. Even at the price it sold for--an ounce for three cents--the cake was a success, in nutrition, appearance and taste.
Ersatz Coffee, Tea and Cocoa
Coffee imports had become impossible by 1916. The scant stores on hand had been stretched and extenuated by the use of chicory and other supplements. A transition from coffee to coffee substitute began. The first substitute, Kaffee-ersatz, was not a bad one. It was mostly made of roasted barley and oats and the flavor was enhanced by chemicals from coal-tar. The brew had a good percentage of nutritive elements, no caffeine and was quite palatable when taken with milk and sugar--without sugar though, it was impossible. But the grain could be put to better purpose and so this led to the introduction of the substitute of a substitute. Kaffee-ersatz-ersatz was made of roasted acorns and beechnuts, with just enough roasted barley to build up a coffee flavor. It was said to be better than the first substitute but was also more expensive. Unfortunately, there weren’t enough acorns and beechnuts, much of which was being fed to pigs. Before long the excellent acorn-beechnut coffee disappeared to be replaced by a third substitute whose original ingredients were carrots and yellow turnips. A substitute for tea was not difficult. The bloom of the linden tree mixed with beech buds and a few tips of pine made an excellent "oolong." A cocoa substitute came from coal-tar and chemistry along with roasted peas and oats.
Meatless Meat
The advantage of the conversion of grains, nuts and vegetables that were used as substitutes was to placate the old eating habits of the public. The same food value would be found if consumed in some other form. This placation was no more evident than on every meatless, fatless, or wheatless day or period. The rice "lamb" chop would satisfy even an exacting taste. Rice was boiled and formed into a lump resembling a chop. A skewer of wood was stuck into the lump to serve as a bone. The illusion was made more complete with a little paper rosette to top off the "bone" and served with green peas and a sprig of watercress. Fried in real mutton tallow, it came to the table with the look and aroma of the real thing. The vegetable beefsteak was a composition of cornmeal, spinach, potatoes, and ground nuts with an egg to bind the mass together. It took becoming used to the thing’s interior, which was pale green, in order to achieve the satisfaction of using a knife in good earnest. The paucity of meat was a result of an economic decision made in 1914. It was easier and less wasteful to distribute cereals and vegetables directly than the more complex food products from animals, which required the same cereals and vegetables to keep alive. It was thought to be of more value to the state to eliminate the step of having animal stomachs convert home-raised cereal into meat and let the human stomach attend to the grain directly. The shortage of meat, lard, suet, butter, and eggs actually helped to improve the health of the public, due to the elimination of three-quarters of the fat normally consumed. Since no animal fat could be produced without sacrificing a good share of the country’s cereal supply, the animal-product industry was kept down to its lowest possible level. However, this had the undesirable effect of raising the prices of what meats and fats that were available and encouraging illicit trading.”(3)
For us in JR129, our food will be considerably better. However, we will try hard to stick to the same formula of a light breakfast, a heavier lunch and a light dinner. We will also stick to the same type foods and avoid items that they could not get. Ours will be fresher and in greater amounts. Do note in conclusion that foods from home became a basic staple of the German diet. We therefore recommend that each soldier bring with them some of the following:
• Chocolate – always dark and not in candy bar form if possible.
• Meat – tins of oysters, mussels, sardines, bully beef or any type of dried meat
• Hard candy – butterscotch, peppermint and licorice were common
• Dried fruit – apples, pears, peaches, apricots (not bananas)
• Coffee – coffee was not always available and the soldiers often received some from home
• Delicacies – peanuts, cookies, sweetbreads, nuts
[1] The History Learning Site UK, Chris Trueman
2 The German Soldier in World War I - The final "Argument of Kings", R.H.Keller/ 2009
3 The Production and Use of Ersatz Goods by Marc Benedict of J.R. 120, edited by Rudi Weiß